Pikes 2011 Riesling – Return to Middle Palate

Early on since moving over from the ‘West’, I ventured on my newly acquired single speed bicycle to my closest Fitzroy wine store, where funnily enough I was greeted by a charming man behind the counter with a beard, ( a beard is man currency in these parts) Having recently grown out my designer stubble, we exchanged self approving nods, and I made my way over to the fridge, and decided to start at R.

I’ve long loved the contents of the slender bottle variety, but for a long time over ‘west’ I frolicked in a puddle of Chardonnay, it was there, so was I, it was wrong, but so right. I would take my lashing of French oak day in, day out, seldom venturing away unless slapped in the mouth by something French, or dirty and Spanish. I gazed into the frosty fridge, and spotted a familiar label, the Pikes Fish, I’d played golf with Neil, albeit badly in 2009, back in Perth, and thought this would be a starting juncture, and let’s be up front, I’ve been a fan for a while, but what I found took me back.

PIKES 2011 “Traditionale” Riesling

Now I’ve always been a bit of a slut for Watervale and Clare Valley Rieslings, but general I’d fall on the Watervale side of things, the searing acid would inevitable win me over, Clare, for all of her textural niceties, could loose her way, and trip on the mat. 2011 PIKES has none of it, first the enticing stone-fruit nose, hint of underipe apricots, splash of peach, this isn’t your kerosene monster, its subtle, but no the girl sitting in the corner of the room that won’t dance all night. What got me with this wine is the palate, instantly it has that Clare generosity, but a balanced, to over balanced ( I mean that to be complimentary), natural acid, that holds a strong position in the middle palate, careering into the back of the mouth, its tingly, refreshing, its citrus, its lime, it demands you to pick up your fishing rod, or while you still have a mouthful, driving to your nearest oyster dispensing service.

In a land of minimalist, flightless, or overblown ripples of Riesling, the positioning of the flavours of this wine, I truly, in more than one way, find this piece refreshing.

7.5 / 10 Sipps
$18-27 RRP